iceboating.net Minnesota Ice Sailing Association

I am in the second and currently most successful year of developing a three runner (single in the back) ice wind surfer. I started with the usual hot rolled steel and now want to make some real runners for it (well I am sailing on a salt pond so maybe want is not the correct word). I scaled down what I saw you DN folks doing and came up with 2" x 3/16 runners these are working well and I want to repeat them in 440C every internet search comes up empty. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Winterhawk

On the hard Salty stuff in RI

I had all of my runners sharpened today at Seven Seas in Excelsior MN. Tim did a great job and adjusted a few crowns as well. I did my own final stoning. Tim is flexible and can do them while you wait. Call him first to be sure. The price is reasonable.
This was their posting a few months back.
Mike

We have finished dialing in our new runner sharpener and are ready to start providing sharpening service.
The sharpener was built around a 132" belt so we will be able to handle most types of runners.

I have an older, much older Dn with a questionable plank, it worked last year but I just noticed a weakening around a knot, with little time left to build a new one how would I go about reinforcing this one? I know it would not be class legal but that is of no concern. At the same time could a wooden mast be reinforced with fiber glass laminated to the leading edge? Thank you Dennis

A friend and I are building twin boats for next season. Solid wing boats that go very fast. Tonight during build night we just had a horrifying thought ... wait ... isn't there a 50mph speed limit? Is it enforced for ice boats? On a good day our boats should be in the 70s, but even on an ordinary day we should be over the speed limit. Anyone have any problems in this area?

Interested? ... visit this site:
http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/wingboats/

We need a good source for vinyl lettering. Hull numbers are the new thing.

Anyone?

If you broke your boat or yourself, or if your pony threw you at the 2008 Challenge post a reply.

Seems like we had a lot of broken gear.

• John M. hurts his shoulder on a wild slide on friday
• Matt J. re-hurt his neck on friday bouncing around
• Adam K. broke his chock spinning out on friday
• Mike M. split his bow on friday
• Steve O. pulls apart the bottom skin on his new, full length boat on friday
• Tomek Z. removes both his chocks at the windward pin on saturday
• Berdnt Z. delaminated his plank on sunday
  

Were going the distance...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXMx4cUfidE

Sincerely,
Gavin Potts
sailordude@comcast.net

When someone decides that they want to build a DN, where do they go to find the plans? I know the IDNIYRA has plans, but are those the plans you want to use to build a super dialed program? Advice is always appreciated...

m

I wonder if I can get some input on runner sharpening. I've been using a friends 72" or so belt sander and 100 grit belts (the only ones he has). I set it to 45 degrees and it seems to do a good job on my DN runners but is a little short for my Skeeter runners. I'm looking at buying or building a similar but longer set-up. Any advice? Also I have heard people mention stoning to touch up a slightly dull runner. What type stone do you use and what kind of jig do you use to maintain your 45 Degree edge? How about profile? Being a one set of runners guy, is there "standard" profile? If any

I would like to build a very cheap boat I bought a sunfish sailboat last summer for $35.00 and would like to use the mast and sail from it to build an iceboat. I have been an auto mechanic for the last 20 years and am a avid woodworker. Does anyone know of anybody doing this or any plans availible, Please help

Look at your plank as your boats suspension (your sail is your engine, masts your transmission and runners your tires). Although this is the way some of the top sailors here in Michigan set up their DN's, it really applies to most all boats. If you are using the Sarnes stud plate attachment system, you need to put thin washers (spacers) under the ends of the plates. This helps prevent the plank from rocking when attached to the boat. No matter what system you use, don't allow the plank to rock. The next thing you need to do is to mount the plank on your boat and load it up to sailors weight plus 30-40 lbs..

So I'm screwing around in the shop shimming my DN runners wondering how close the big shots runners are to being parallel. (by big shots I mean those guys that go by you really fast)
If I square my plank up with the wall that is 24' away and clamp my laser level to a runner, mark the wall, clamp it to the other runner, mark the wall and am off by an inch over the 24', that seems like a lot. But if you do a little trapezoidal math it figures out to be about .2 degrees off and it suddenly sounds much better. So obviously zero deviation over a vast distance is ideal, but...really...how much dev

Greetings,
Hopefully this isn't to redundant, I scanned posts back a year...

I am very interested in boating, almost bought a Slicer this morning... Anyway, With the cost of some boats starting in the 1000's what's a new boater to do. The money isn't really the problem but I don't want to over buy if it's only a few times a season which brings me to my first question. Now that Saint Paul, MN has snow and little ice is the season over before it started?

I am an experience furniture maker and novice welder with a substantial supply of tools and what I believe to be full plans to a DN60.

O.K. you guys are heading out to scream around up north, and I'm just getting around to gluing up my new plank.
I'm following the procedure written by Paul Goodwin on the DN BBS, I have the ash and clear pine slats cut planed, joined and glued to form the skins and core, and I have a good staight I-beam to clamp them to, but I don't feel I have a good handle on the amount of camber, expected spring back, and amount (if any) gull wing.
Anyone got 2 cents?